Highlights of one customer's first card modeling experience

I had promised Dave Miecznikowski that I would relate my first time experiences with Clever Models and cardstock models in general, because we have been exchanging emails and he has been real helpful.  I am starting to model in S Scale trains since I had American Flyer trains as a kid (still have them) and would like to build a hi-rail semi-scale small shelf layout for them.  Since I am in the planning stages, I looked at various structures and came across Clever Models.  I had never done a card stock model before so I was a bit leery in attempting one.  I saw the O gauge flag stop in the “freebies” section so decided to give it a shot (especially since the maximum cost on my part would be some cardstock and time (thanks for that C.M.)).  I first read all the hints on the web page and started in.  The first thing I did was to scale for S scale by reducing 75%.  Tips that I found useful were:

 

1) use SHARP exacto blades and use a “self-healing” cutting surface.  I used a piece of emory paper to “strop” the blade to extend its usefullness.
2) for inside corner cuts, poke a hole in the corner with a pin.  When cutting, put the tip of the knife and cut AWAY from the hole.  Of course use a metal straight edge for the cuts.
3) I had a lot of problems coloring the cut edges of the cardstock.  I had purchased cheap colored felt tip markers to do this.  DON’T!  using them forced some new printouts on fresh cardstock.  I still don’t have the hang of doing this, so I ended up painting the edges, and the finer cut pieces, like the window moulding.   In modeling, as in real life, paint can hide construction flaws. 
4) Don’t rush!  I did, and ended up marring some wall surfaces with paint.  Obviously, the painter who was hired by the RR to paint the flagstop was not a perfectionist.  This is true in all modeling.
5) I mounted the roof and some wall surfaces on thin styrene sheet for strength.  Of course this creates a laminate and using a marker probably wouldn’t work for the styrene edges.  That is one for me to try.  I also used plastic structure pieces to strengthen the corners.
6) I had at first tried 60 weight paper and this seemed flimsy to me, so I switched to 120 weight.  My printer has no problem with this so I found that easier.  For the roof I used regular printer paper since I laminated it to sheet styrene.
7) When creating folds, use a metal rule as a “brake” to make clean folds.
8) The finished model is certainly not up to “John Allen” standards but will be placed at the “back” of the layout so the many flaws won’t be seen, but the model more importantly served as a learning experience.  As with all things, the more you practice, the better you get. 

Dave M.

 

Comments

[Ben]

Looks good to me Dave! Be careful! These kits become addictive! I am working on the John Allen water tank and just purchased the brick and mortar CD. The tank is awesome, and I would put it up against a 'traditional' craftsman model any time.

One thing that I think really helps make a nice model is to make copy paper roofing. Just print enough extra roof panels on printer paper, and cut strips of shingles from these. On the model, overlap them as they would be in real life. Lift one here and there for a more weathered look, and for really run down, cut a few away and expose the tar paper underneath! Of course, you have to apply the tar paper layer first.

A small glass bead and a short length of toothpick make nice roof finials. I learned this from Troels Kirk on Railine Forums where he is documenting his coastline railroad build. You HAVE to check out his work with paper. It will blow your mind!

I am using a 100lb strathmore paper, and it seems to take markers well, though it does bleed sometimes.

-Ben

[David M.]

Ben,

Ben, Like I said, a learning experience. I will certainly try Plant #2 for my next project and will buy the Bricks and Mortar disk in S scale when Clever Models releases it, maybe by March. As an aside, I think it a good thing that C.M. released the flag stop as a freebie, so that I could try cardstock modeling. I wouldn't be back if I hadn't tried it first.

I did notice the curled up roof shingles on your "O" gauge version, but decided against it, because I didn't want to be overly ambitious. I have done "wooden" shake shingle strips on Bret's Brewery in HO scale by Campbell Models many years ago (for my dad's HO scale RR), so am a little familiar with the method. I just wanted to start small and learn by doing. I think way too many modelers start being too ambitious and later get discouraged when the modeling skills have not become developed enough.

Thanks Ben for your comment and thanks C.M. for the model.

I did get a chance to surf over to see Troels Kirk's SeaView House. Yes a very good modeler indeed.

[Ben]

I think you are right about the starting simple and advancing as your skills advance. It is one of the nice things about paper models. They can be as simple or as elaborate as you can dream up!

-Ben