Want to get a print only printer. Dave had recommended Epson because he thought it used superior inks but since they "upgraded" their ink not so much. What is the latest and greatest recommended that uses ink wells. Thanks
Well Dave, quite frankly, I don't like any of the new printers. Not that I have tried them all, but I have tried some and none of them stack up to the old printers. Everybody has pretty much gone laser and I REALLY DON'T LIKE their output. If I ever find a new printer that I like, I will certainly let everyone know. How bout some input from the rest of you out there?
Had to buy a new printer & the pickens were very thin around here. The only one I could find locally was an HP4155. Very hard to set up, at least to me & it won't print to the edge. After some searching I found the icon for edge to edge printing but it doesn't do anything Went to web site & Google & it seems to be a mystery. WHY doesn't it print to the edge always like all my other printers did????. Not bad for HO scale where I can center the print, but probably not good for O scale where you have to almost print to the edge.
Hey Jerry, I feel your pain. The current printer situation could put an end to Clever Models. But your comment about printing edge to edge for O scale has ne intrigued. All of our pages should print out with a half inch margin all around for the very reason that MOST printers can not print edge to edge. I suggest you check your scaling. You may be printing too large. It should always be "FULL SIZE", 100% or something like that, unless you are reducing to a smaller scale.
Since I mostly print in HO scale I just surmised that it would be a problem in O scale. I have printed in O scale for a friend, but the printer I had then printed to the edge. The first printer I had ages ago would print borderless photos. You can see the carriage goes far enough over to print to the edge' so what's the problem?? Could it be that you would use more ink if you could print to the edge & then you would finally realize what a ripoff the ink really is ?
I've been using a low-end Epson EcoTank printer ET-4500 (has rear sheet feeding). In 3 years I've only had to refill the ink tanks once. Mine does not do borderless, but some of the higher end EcoTank models do. I sometimes have to put a little pressure on the cardstock to make the in-feed rollers catch the sheet with really heavy stock....but for the price of the printer (and especially the low per page to print cost) I'm not complaining.
Mine is a printer/copier/scanner but there are printer only models available.
A suggestion if your printer does not like the heavier cardstock (I have run into this) print on lighter stock and laminate to heavier. I do the lamination as quite a few of the kits I build are used on a portable layout, Just remember that the ends have to inset. I usually will cut all the walls apart for a good fit. Some of my buildings have been going to and from shows for 10 years. Dave took pictures the year Clever was at the West Springfield Ma, show.
Rob L. you had me excited about the ET4500 but when I looked it up it was $1,100. Not exactly a low end price. They did have refurbished for around $500 but a bit l hesitant to buy used. Did find some lower priced Epsons though. Thanks for your reply
Dave - the ET-4500 is a discontinued model. I'm floored that refurbished units like the one I have are priced so high! When I bought it new is was around $250 on sale. Below is a link to current ecotank et-2720 printer only for $200 and has rear sheet loading:
Epson has a whole range of EcoTanks. The real "photo quality" ones are much more expensive and use two different black inks plus a grey ink, but I've been very pleased with my simple 4-color (Yellow/Cyan/Magenta/Black) unit.
The ads about 2 years worth of ink included aren't just marketing hype...although how long you go before needing to top off a tank obviously depends on how much you print.
For laser printing, there are two options – your own printer or a print shop.
YOUR OWN PRINTER In terms of your own printer, the best way to source one is a refurb from the manufacturer. It should have a warranty and you would be looking for a 30 + copy per minute (CPM) model as this has the features you would use. The machines are called MFP’s – Multi-Function Machines – as they scan (very useful), copy and print. Most have a wi-fi connection as well.
For printing, you need the duplex (back-to-back printing) function, as well as the ability to use a bypass tray and print different paper thicknesses.
A 30 + CPM should have all these features.
Laser printers of this type have the DPI (dots per inch) and the quality needed for paper models, and laser prints come out very nicely. They also have the advantage that the print medium does not dry if they are left standing!
USING A PRINT SHOP An alternative is to let ta Print Shop have the hassle of printing. You don’t pay them until the quality is right.
But remember what I said about paper thickness settings – Print Shops often cannot be bothered, so make sure they set the temperature correctly. I usually have a test sheet I use for a print shop job and I then score and fold this there to test the toner is properly fused (if I haven’t been able to see the Print Shop do the settings initially).
TIP When making laser printed models, I always take the precaution of spraying the model sheets with a matt varnish (the cheap type you buy off the shelf in a hardware store) before I start cutting. This helps ensure the print is protected and helps with touch-ups.
For touch-up and edge-coloring I use watercolors – there are various media options for watercolors and I use most depending on where I am touching up.
Because of the varnish, the watercolors are easy to clean up if need be – the whole model can then be sprayed to fix the watercolors and further protect it.
I was using an Epson WF-3520, but decided to go with an ET-3760 eco-tank 2 years ago when I realized a set of 4 new ink cartridges would set me back almost $100. After over a year the new printer is making acceptable prints, but how long they last is unknown. I really wanted the Epson DuraBrite pigment base ink and was disappointed to find the new printer uses cheaper dye-based ink. Also, I can no longer print on heavy card as there is no rear sheet feeder. Both of these shortcomings could be solved by spending major $ for a more capable machine...I just don't have the $500 to $1000 to get one!
I’m just getting started in paper modeling, after seeing the “card stock modeling for model railroads” videos on YouTube. I have an Epson Eco-tank 2850, under $300, and I’m printing on 110 lb card stock with no problems. Supposedly, this series of printer can handle much thicker stock as it has a rear feed through rather than a lower tray which would require a 180 rotation even for simplex printing. In 6 months I’m about 1/2 way through the black ink and only down about 1/4 on C, Y & M. Refill bundles of genuine ink are $50 at Sam’s Club and at least $10 more anywhere else. Toner cartridge bundle for my 10+ year old brother laser printer were up to $300 and I agree, the inkjets print better pictures. Oh and I found my ream of 110 lb matt white 94 brightness card stock at Walmart for under $10!
I do have one printing suggestion for n-scalers, you should be able to change the scaling factor and go with 2 pages on 1 piece of paper and avoid wasting a lot of paper!
Mine is a printer/copier/scanner but there are printer only models available.
https://epson.com/For-Home/Printers/Inkjet/EcoTank-ET-2720-All-in-One-Supertank-Printer---White/p/C11CH42202
and here is a link to the user manual
https://files.support.epson.com/docid/cpd5/cpd56719/index.html
Epson has a whole range of EcoTanks. The real "photo quality" ones are much more expensive and use two different black inks plus a grey ink, but I've been very pleased with my simple 4-color (Yellow/Cyan/Magenta/Black) unit.
The ads about 2 years worth of ink included aren't just marketing hype...although how long you go before needing to top off a tank obviously depends on how much you print.
Thanks,
Rob
I am firmly in the laser printer camp!
For laser printing, there are two options – your own printer or a print shop.
YOUR OWN PRINTER
In terms of your own printer, the best way to source one is a refurb from the manufacturer. It should have a warranty and you would be looking for a 30 + copy per minute (CPM) model as this has the features you would use. The machines are called MFP’s – Multi-Function Machines – as they scan (very useful), copy and print. Most have a wi-fi connection as well.
For printing, you need the duplex (back-to-back printing) function, as well as the ability to use a bypass tray and print different paper thicknesses.
A 30 + CPM should have all these features.
Laser printers of this type have the DPI (dots per inch) and the quality needed for paper models, and laser prints come out very nicely. They also have the advantage that the print medium does not dry if they are left standing!
USING A PRINT SHOP
An alternative is to let ta Print Shop have the hassle of printing. You don’t pay them until the quality is right.
But remember what I said about paper thickness settings – Print Shops often cannot be bothered, so make sure they set the temperature correctly. I usually have a test sheet I use for a print shop job and I then score and fold this there to test the toner is properly fused (if I haven’t been able to see the Print Shop do the settings initially).
TIP
When making laser printed models, I always take the precaution of spraying the model sheets with a matt varnish (the cheap type you buy off the shelf in a hardware store) before I start cutting. This helps ensure the print is protected and helps with touch-ups.
For touch-up and edge-coloring I use watercolors – there are various media options for watercolors and I use most depending on where I am touching up.
Because of the varnish, the watercolors are easy to clean up if need be – the whole model can then be sprayed to fix the watercolors and further protect it.
Kevin
I do have one printing suggestion for n-scalers, you should be able to change the scaling factor and go with 2 pages on 1 piece of paper and avoid wasting a lot of paper!