Hey folks,

I wanted to introduce myself and my On30 Pizza Box layout project. All of the structures are from Clever Models. I've completed the Skippy's Hot Dogs build. It is now Track Side Pizza! check out my videos for the build.

https://www.youtube.com/user/bsrosier
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLV4gTXwbEM1fWSIQ6BXyuFptmHzbHHHSu

Thanks,

Barry Rosier

what weight paper did you use? any reason for not doubling or lining the
walls? why cut on the glass rather than the mat?
;-)

Mel,

I used 110lbs card stock I printed on a color laser. I cut on the glass board because I read that it gives you a better cut without tearing. Since the building was small I didn't feel the to double up or line the walls. The bracing I put in was more than enough.

Barry

barry; many thanks, btw how's the "s" doing? ;-)

Well due to some life changes I've dismantled my S scale American Flyer layout. I am planning a new HO T-Trak layout and an On30 layout for my garage.

Cutting on glass also avoids the problem of a worn mat where the knife tries to follow previous cuts... self-healing mats don't close back up after long use.

The disadvantages of glass include 1) their weight if your work station moves around from room to room as mine does, and 2) scalpel blades seem to blunt quicker on the glass. However a diamond sharpening stone quickly fixes that.

Take care and best wishes, Lynn

Lynn,

I have ran into that issue. I think I will stick to my glass cutting board. And I buy Xacto blades in 100 packs so change often,

Barry

One problem with cutting on glass: years ago I was cutting plastic sprues with an xacto blade on glass, when the tip of the blade broke off and hit me just above my eyebrow. Cutting cardstock does not require as much pressure as cutting sprues, but ... In any case, safety glasses or equivalent eye protection should always be used when cutting anything.

Don, thank you for that bit of information. I have seen the tip break so i'll make sure to be safe.

Guys,
Just my 2¢, well maybe a quarter, but you are all kind of missing the point. Whether you use a cutting board or glass, you should really try to use only enough pressure to make a clean cut. It is a skill that you should really work on. You will find it especially important if you cut out window panes when layering windows. No matter what type of blade you use, there is a certain amount of drag produced. That drag only makes accuracy more difficult and in paper modeling, accuracy is everything. Also, trying to keep the cutting edge of the blade as vertical as possible helps when doing inside corners. I originally used to cut on nothing but glass and it does give a very good cut. But after many, many kits, I realized that you can do just as well on a matt. Since all blades are ground to an edge, they obviously taper in width as you go up the blade. This makes a wider cut than is necessary. I know you will say that it is no big thing because it is only a couple of microns, but trust me, it does make a difference. Keep your cuts light and accurate and you will become a better paper modeler.

Good advice Dave and thanks. This is something that (out of the blue) occurred to me the other day. I realised that I am quite 'heavy handed' with the craft knife, and as well as not putting too much pressure on the blade for the reasons you give (and safety reasons) it also occurred to me that if my blade tip spends a lot of time cutting through into the mat - my blade probably blunts quicker too.

I notice the comments on using glass as a "cutting mat". Don't!

This really is dangerous - as well as the broken blade issues, you can have the glass break or you generate microscopic glass shards at times. Get these on your hands and in your eye and you will know about it.

Rather have your glass cut up into different size rectangles and aids and have the corners smoothed, and then use them as building aids to get sharps edges when you do the assembly.

Use a cutting mat. That's what they are designed for and they do work.

Buy a decent quality one - OLFA is great.

A good cutting mat will go on and on - I have been using the same one for 20 years and still use it every second day.

A good mat does "self-heal" and the surface should remain fine. Periodically (maybe every 6 months) \ give it a good wash with soapy water and then soak in water overnight. Voila - new mat!

Keep it clean. I use one side just for cutting and it is spotless. Muck and old glues "distracts" the blade when cutting.

The other side I use if I am gluing and need a work surface.

And as has been mentioned - keep that blade sharp! I use good quality blades (not Xacto) - again Olfa are decent and one blade will last me up to 8 months. I constantly sharpen using a small fisherman's Arkansas Whetstone - just use it dry and give it 20 odd stokes on each side. I do this every 200 cuts maybe - basically if the blade does not feel sharp anymore. Olfa blades have less of a sharp angle at the tip and are high-quality steel - as a result, I cannot remember when last one snapped.

Kevin,

Thanks for all of the great feedback. The glass I used is a glass cutting board but I have gotten away from it on my last project with no issues. I'll have to check out the blades you mention.

Barry Rosier

Thanks Barry.

I was not actually aware that specific glass cutting boards exist, but now see they do - in various types.

The blades are basically these - https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-AK-1-Standard-Knife-Blades/dp/B0006SJAXE?ref_=ast_sto_dp

You can actually buy those knives with 10 and 20 blades as well.

Lower down on that web page they show the Olfa mats as well. They are other manufacturers that make similar high quality mats.

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An example of the type of whetstone I use, though mine is only half and inch wide. And fits nice on in mu tool caddy.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Arkansas-Sharpening-Whetstone-MAP-13A-L/dp/B0159Q99XS/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=arkansas+pocket+whetstone&qid=1607584313&sr=8-3

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Good luck going forward. And what I have provided are suggestions only - I think it is important for modellers to feel free to naturally develop the techniques, methods and tools to use that suit them, and that they are happy with!

Kevin,

Sharing information like this makes us all better modelers. No one way is right. Like you said it is what works for you.

Barry Rosier