Sometimes I question your use of weathering and how you decide what buildings you choose for weathering case in point the farm house and the new water tank The farm house is extensively weathered one would think an occupied dwelling would be maintained and would see very little weathering on the other hand the water tank is in a sooty environment and should see a certain amount of weathering yet the water tank is pristeen and new looking a light dusting of chalks can help but being a flat structure it doesnt deposit the color in a natural pattern Short of completely redoing the building with weathered textures do you have anyway that this can be addressed
Paul It's not so much how we decide to weather, like Thom said, it's more likely because of the way we find the inspiration in real life. I don't know if you have spent much time in the rural Midwest, but most farm structures, including the residences, get pretty beat up really quickly. The time is spent, getting the crops and livestock taken care of. The buildings, not so much. On the other hand, the water tank might just be recently built. For weathering on flat walls, I like to use watercolor markers. (they are actually, usually alcohol based.) They can be very translucent and blend-able Check out a company named Tombow ABT acid free.
This is a great topic and one of the main reasons I am growing very fond cardstock models.
IF… and this is an expensive if, you have access to a program like Adobe Photoshop, adding your own weathering is a breeze. If you don’t have access, than other media (chalks, pastels etc.) can also be used.
The reason I like using Photoshop (or any similar software) is that you can change or add as much weathering as you like or as the need fits. The process is completely random, but can be reproduces if needed. In my experience, weathering is a very personal thing and would be very difficult to please everyone needs. I think what Dave and Thom tried to say is, the weathering on these two items are what they are because of the photorealism of capture process. If I’m wrong on that please correct me.
Using Photoshop to make a few changes on a simple kit might make a good VLOG topic. OR, take two identical building and weather one in Photoshop and weather the other with chalks and post them on line for people to see if there is any difference.
I agree, it is a good topic and i'll talk about it a bit this monday at 9am central on the vlog. as you might imagine , I have thousands of files of things like stains, rust, cracked paint etc. so wile I start withg reality,. I do sometimes augment it by adding from the library. Now that im getting used to the vlog (still lots to learn) I will be doing demonstrations and giving examples every week. The vlog seems to be wanting to be at least a half hour long. hope thats not too long.
I think if I catch it live, a half hour is about right.
But I must confess, I've watched it after the live stream is done with the sound down, the closed-captions on and the speed up to 2x. I do this with most of the craft and woodworking videos I watch now -- unless the camerawork is something special, like with Laura Kampf's stuff, or the videos are pretty short to begin with, like ThunderMesaStudio -- otherwise I'd be staring at YouTube all day. I can read closed-captions faster than someone can talk.
By the way, something you mentioned in the video -- the complexity of the models doesn't phase me at all, but then, I'm a longtime cardstock modeler. Bring on the tiny pieces of lumber, and I'll attempt to make them in N scale!
Well, the one building I weathered so far was done with paint and pastels. I have GIMP (free on Source Forge and very capable), but haven't learned how to use it to weather before printing. One concern, since I'm modeling in 1:48 is that I cut individual strips for the 3-D effect and would think that I might get a saw-tooth effect if the weathering were already present in the sheet before cutting it up,
I model in HO, and have weathered my models after coating them with Matte Medium using acrylic paints ( dry brush and washes ) The matte medium keeps the card from soaking up too much paint. For rusting metal roofing, in addition to whats already textured by Clever Models, i use transparent red oxide and transpareent yellow oxide along with regular red oxide to get a layered rust effect. dust, grime and dirt are applied in like manner, up from the bottom of the wall, or streaked down from the roofline. I have drybrushed right on the card itself but found that washes were not as easily controlled - soaking into the card. I have used powdered chalk for soot and dirt deposits.
That sounds like a challenge. I promise to not shy away from small parts. Like the attitude guys Don't know if you're checking in to see the vlogs. I should be able to text in real time.but doesn't seem to be working. Go
It's not so much how we decide to weather, like Thom said, it's more likely because of the way we find the inspiration in real life. I don't know if you have spent much time in the rural Midwest, but most farm structures, including the residences, get pretty beat up really quickly. The time is spent, getting the crops and livestock taken care of. The buildings, not so much. On the other hand, the water tank might just be recently built. For weathering on flat walls, I like to use watercolor markers. (they are actually, usually alcohol based.) They can be very translucent and blend-able Check out a company named Tombow ABT acid free.
This is a great topic and one of the main reasons I am growing very fond cardstock models.
IF… and this is an expensive if, you have access to a program like Adobe Photoshop, adding your own weathering is a breeze.
If you don’t have access, than other media (chalks, pastels etc.) can also be used.
The reason I like using Photoshop (or any similar software) is that you can change or add as much weathering as you like or as the need fits. The process is completely random, but can be reproduces if needed.
In my experience, weathering is a very personal thing and would be very difficult to please everyone needs.
I think what Dave and Thom tried to say is, the weathering on these two items are what they are because of the photorealism of capture process. If I’m wrong on that please correct me.
Using Photoshop to make a few changes on a simple kit might make a good VLOG topic.
OR, take two identical building and weather one in Photoshop and weather the other with chalks and post them on line for people to see if there is any difference.
Charlie
as you might imagine , I have thousands of files of things like stains, rust, cracked paint etc.
so wile I start withg reality,. I do sometimes augment it by adding from the library.
Now that im getting used to the vlog (still lots to learn) I will be doing demonstrations and giving examples every week. The vlog seems to be wanting to be at least a half hour long. hope thats not too long.
But I must confess, I've watched it after the live stream is done with the sound down, the closed-captions on and the speed up to 2x. I do this with most of the craft and woodworking videos I watch now -- unless the camerawork is something special, like with Laura Kampf's stuff, or the videos are pretty short to begin with, like ThunderMesaStudio -- otherwise I'd be staring at YouTube all day. I can read closed-captions faster than someone can talk.
By the way, something you mentioned in the video -- the complexity of the models doesn't phase me at all, but then, I'm a longtime cardstock modeler. Bring on the tiny pieces of lumber, and I'll attempt to make them in N scale!
Don't know if you're checking in to see the vlogs. I should be able to text in real time.but doesn't seem to be working. Go