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Discussion > Weathering

Any suggestion on how to make a cardstock model look older, I mean to look like they've been around for years?
October 27, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterSteven
Steven,

Of course, Thom and Dave do a pretty good job of printing quite a bit of weathering on to the original but I think that I understand your desire to make it look a little more used. When I finish a buildling, I spray the entire structure with a couple of coats of Dullcote. This not only helps to keep it from fading from UV light, but it gives the surface some "tooth". I have had quite a bit of luck using weathering chalks. The Dullcoate will grab the chalks just like any rough texture. I suggest experimenting by printing out some extra sides so that you get a fell for the amount of weathering you want to put down. You can also distress the sides by lifting some random boards on the sides and backing them with tarpaper or raw wood inside.

Jim
October 27, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJim Gore
We are always debating how much weathering is enough. personally i like them pretty beat up. Jim's suggestions are good but let me add to it. If you have the knowledge i would recommend that you add the weathering to the files before you print them. Copies of course. you don't want to change the originals. You can also do quite q wide range of color change this way too.

as far as aging the printed images i would recommend pale to medium gray artist markers. they are transparent and will just build up darkness. i would stay to the edges and under windows and building details to suggest water stains. I also use a pale orange and brown marker for rust. a white art pencil will allow you to fade in the other direction.
Thom M
October 28, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterThom M
Thanks for the ideas, I will be getting some artist markers over the weekend. I find myself wanting to learn more about this hobby. Question, is there some instruction on how to add weathering to the files? I have Photoshop
October 28, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterSteven
One trick I have been using for 30 years or more to age a building, bridge, etc is talcom powder. Ahhh be sure it is the unsented kind.:)

As to weathering in Photoshop, practice with the air brush tools. Be sure to use feather and fade. Also play with opacity and dnesity. But above all be sure to practice on copies, not the original.

Layers is a good tool. This tool will let you switch back forth and will allow you to merge.

It is also possibale to blend colors and even create swatches for the palate. Just experiment. I think you will find that your best results will be by accident. In that case be sure to save the accident in Adobe format so that you will be able to recreate the accident.

John
October 28, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJohn Humes
Good advice John.
I may be doing a clinic on photoshop at Amhearst and probably at the O National in Indianapolis next year. One trick Ive used is a cheat file of spills, rust and stains that i have collected over the years. You can go around with a camera and collect all kinds of useful distressed textures. Photoshop allows you to layer and mix these with your files lots of different ways.
October 29, 2010 | Registered CommenterDave
Artist markers work pretty well some suggestions:

Faber Castel PITT artist pens they come in grey, red, brown and black. They are more like paint brushes then markers the fine tips allow you to add small detail. They are good for edging and adding grime or rust marks on models.

Prismacolor Premier These markers are excellent for creating aging, the ink in the marker is transparent so it will not mark over detail on your kits. Most of the markers are grey they are used to create clothes design drawings but there are like 20 shades of just grey. There are also some browns and reds available. They are a bit expensive but are worth it, each marker has a fine tip on one end and a wide stroke tip on the other.
October 30, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterJDuv